We like to be in a constant state of self-development
Zero Tolerance (ZT) is a detail-oriented, exclusive fashion house based in Lucknow, India. Showcasing South Asian history and heritage through opulent contemporary styles, ZT is inspired by the rich culture of South Asia. The fashion house aims to create meaningful, exclusive pieces that represent the cultural diversity of the Indian subcontinent on the international fashion stage. In a chat with Fibre2Fashion, Founder and Creative Director Prakhar Rao discusses sustainable fashion practices and the uniqueness of the fashion house.
What trends do you see emerging in the fashion industry regarding consumer preferences for exclusivity and limited-edition products?
I see people shifting from mass-produced products to personalised products. People now understand the difference between mass-produced pieces and handmade pieces. They are willing to invest in pieces if they get value for money, and it is all about delivering a personalised experience for those offering exclusive pieces.
I think consumers of exclusive products are now more conscious of their investments, which is amazing because only the real will survive past this.
What inspired the creation of Zero Tolerance, and how did the brand come to life?
Zero Tolerance (ZT) is a product of my life experiences, and the values instilled in me while growing up. ZT is an extension of who I am as a person. The name often sparks curiosity, and the story behind it is quite interesting. In 2020, while trying to decide on a name for the label, I visited my younger brother’s school and saw a board that read “Zero Tolerance policy for students bringing phones to school.” The phrase ‘Zero Tolerance’ resonated with me, as I wanted the brand name to embody the value of persistence and the idea of not giving up. Trusting my instincts, I registered the brand name as Zero Tolerance.
Could you tell us more about the significance of the name ‘Zero Tolerance’? How does it reflect your brand’s philosophy?
Zero Tolerance embodies the philosophy of relentless pursuit and not giving up. At ZT, this mindset drives everything we do—from exploring new silhouettes and refining our packaging to presenting and representing our cultural heritage. We are committed to pushing forward and never stopping, which is exactly what I envision when I think of the name Zero Tolerance.
Your collections highlight the use of traditional South Asian craftsmanship. What are some of the traditional techniques and fabrics you incorporate into your designs?
Yes, from 2024 onwards, we dove deeper into the idea of South Asian representation. Besides using prints that take inspiration from our cultural heritage, we wanted to do more. In our recent releases, you would spot a wide variety of handwoven and handspun fabrics. We have worked with fabrics like Bhagalpur cotton fabric, Dhup-Chav (dual-tone) handwoven cotton fabric, and handwoven fabrics from Barabanki, a town on the outskirts of Lucknow. We are also preserving the ancient embroidery technique of aari and zardozi, which is done on our fabrics by generational artisans based in the older parts of Lucknow.
The idea is to bridge the gap between consumers and artisans and to experiment with these fabrics in new-age designs and silhouettes.
Everything you make is exclusive and not restocked once sold out. What is the thought process behind this business model?
I am a storyteller at heart, and I am in the business because I want to tell stories using fashion as my medium. The idea is not to overproduce or force consumption on people but to create high-quality pieces influenced by a certain idea, execute it, and move on. As I said, we like to be in a constant state of self-development, and that is why we make exclusive pieces. This helps us explore more and never be stagnant as a design-first fashion house.
How does ZT ensure quality and uniqueness in every piece of clothing? What steps do you take to maintain this standard?
All the samples are tried and tested by our entire team for durability, and we make amendments based on how we feel wearing each piece. This way, we can understand what works for us and what does not, ensuring the quality of each piece by becoming the first users of the samples we create.
The other production-oriented steps are:
We take our time crafting the pieces.
We are okay with delivering a little later rather than sending out low-quality items, although we maintain proper communication with our clients and even go to the extent of fulfilling their demands.
We work with textile engineers to develop high-quality fabrics and sustainable algae-based pigment dyes.
We do not follow any set rules to be unique—the only thing we do is stay true to our hearts and create pieces that resonate with our thought process and the mood we want for the collection. We try to stay away from trends, drawing inspiration from our life experiences, the people we meet, their fashion sense, the films we watch, and the music we listen to.
How can companies in the fashion industry balance the demand for fast fashion with the growing consumer interest in sustainable and ethical practices?
I think it is the new-age labels that need to understand and mend their ways of production—and be as transparent as possible with their community. At the same time, I believe that sustainable and ethical practices should not be something to boast about but should be a general standard. What I mean by this is that brands need to work on their supply and demand chain, create business models that minimise overproduction, and make conscious decisions to do their bit to save the environment.
What are some of the biggest challenges fashion brands face when sourcing materials sustainably, and how can they overcome these obstacles?
The biggest challenge when sourcing materials sustainably is the availability itself. Many platforms offer sustainable options, but will they work for you? Be patient when sourcing—first, make a sample out of the material you sourced, and then move forward accordingly. There are numerous challenges, from maintaining a certain thread count to dealing with shrinkage, colour bleeding, and lint issues, that you will have to overcome in terms of fabrics. Do not place bulk orders until you are one hundred per cent sure about the material. Additionally, most of the time, you would not find the weavers and fabric makers who are doing the work online—you will have to travel to them and understand what the material is all about, which requires a lot of travelling, hard work, and hit and trial.
Be reasonable, be flexible, and be consistent—it requires a lot of hard work to produce something that is entirely sustainable. Stay true to your journey, and you will get there!
Can you discuss your approach to sustainable fashion and the practices you have implemented?
Sustainability is not something we force into our processes; it comes naturally to us. From layering fabric in a certain way to minimise waste to working with exclusive pieces to prevent overproduction, I believe that South Asian traditional ways of making fabric align well with sustainable practices, as this is the only way to create clothing with zero carbon footprint.
The idea is to make environmentally conscious decisions and encourage the entire production and packaging team to make choices that minimise waste.
How important is collaboration in the fashion industry, and what benefits do brands typically seek from partnering with designers, artisans, or influencers?
Collaboration is one of the most important aspects of growing any business, apart from content and consistency. Every collaboration has its own end goal, and you should always keep in mind what you seek with the respective collaboration—is it reaching a wider audience, satisfying your creative urge, or preserving certain elements that have been lost? If you have the end goal in mind, it will be easier to decide who to collaborate with. If done right, it creates a memorable experience for your clients, potential customers, and, of course, your entire team.
Can you tell us about your collaboration with Sameera Sardana? What was the creative process behind this partnership?
Sameera Sardana is one of the most creative people I have come across so far. When I first saw her work, I was awestruck by her style, the choice of colours, and what it stood for. I just could not wait to have her on board for a collaboration.
Whenever we collaborate with anyone, I have a brief conversation over several days about what Zero Tolerance stands for and what our values are. I never try to interfere with a person’s creative process. I have always given full creative freedom to anyone I work with because I believe that a person creates something truly special when they are left alone in their creative pursuit rather than having it hindered. It was an amazing collaboration, and my favourite printed shirts are from the SAM X ZT pieces. She took inspiration from the game of chess and created imagery that reflects what goes on in a chess game. Chess was invented in the Indian subcontinent, and her art is something we all should check out! Whenever we open a store, you will see a lot of Sameera Sardana’s work there!
How do you balance contemporary fashion trends with traditional elements?
There is a lot of experimentation that goes into creating the look we want to work on. I have always lived around people who have their own distinct style of dressing, and I have always resonated with the idea of standing out from the crowd. We reimagine silhouettes and draping styles and create pieces that we city boys would like to wear, while also preserving traditional art forms and staying true to our roots. To be honest, most of the time we are ahead of contemporary trends; we do not follow them—we set them.
With the rise of digital marketing and social media, how can fashion brands adapt their strategies to engage with a global audience?
I believe that sometimes you need to work hard to reach your target customer, and sometimes people just find you. But when you are doing something with all your heart, it shows—be transparent, speak about your journey, research your ideal target customer avatar, and engage with your audience. That way, you can understand what kind of content your target audience is interested in and deliver it with your personal touch.
Geographical targeting can be done effectively by collaborating with individuals who resonate with your brand values and working things out with them.
One important aspect is to never compromise your values, as that is what makes you unique. Something that has worked for someone else does not necessarily mean it will work for you—explore your own ways to do things right.
What can customers expect from your new collection ‘Homecoming’24’? What are the key pieces or themes of this collection?
Homecoming’24 is all about my home city—the artisans, art forms, and fabrics. Customers can expect a tailored experience with high-quality pieces that offer unmatched comfort. The pieces are edgy yet authentic, with each piece telling its own story. From recreating traditional motifs to incorporating aari and zardozi details in menswear pieces, this collection is something every fashion enthusiast should check out—because once you start investing in Zero Tolerance pieces, there is no going back!
Every piece holds a significant place in the collection, so it would not do justice to highlight just one and leave out the rest. However, for the sake of the question, I would like to mention that four pieces—Kairi handmade shirt, royal blue ari handwork linen shirt, dhup-chav detachable sleeve shirt, and royal crimson shirt—garnered the most interest.
Looking to the future, what are your goals for ZT? Are there any upcoming projects or collaborations that you are excited about?
My goal with ZT is to make it big—and when I say I want to make it big, I mean that every individual who is working with me—the artisans, weavers, masters—everyone is financially secure, and they get the spotlight they deserve. At the same time, I want to preserve the traditional ways of creating fabric that have been lost since machines took over. I want to dive deeper into the idea of South Asian representation and showcase our pieces to fashion enthusiasts worldwide.
One of the most exciting projects we are working on right now is the London Fashion Week (LFW). We have been invited and are part of the official schedule for LFW’s September 2024 edition, where we will be showcasing our highly anticipated collection, KARM. It is going to be an eleven-outfit assemblage that has been entirely handmade, from fabric to finished pieces, by skilled artisans of Northern India. The show is on September 13, and I would like to invite everyone who is reading this to attend. Through this collection, I aim to put the long-due spotlight on Indian craftsmanship.
