ZEROBARRACENTO’s core principles are 0% waste, 100% transparency and traceability
ZEROBARRACENTO makes zero waste outerwear in Italy. The company was created not to revolutionise, but to restructure (re-shape) the values of the fashion industry, escaping seasonal trends and restrictions imposed by age and gender. In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, the brand’s Zero Waste Designer and CEO Camilla Carrara speaks on zero waste manufacturing technology, slow fashion, sustainable practices and more.
What do you believe are the biggest challenges facing the fashion industry in its shift towards more sustainable practices?
Supply chain transformation is one of the biggest challenges facing the fashion industry in moving towards more sustainable practices. Every step of the production process should be rethought, from raw materials sourcing to distribution and disposal. Achieving sustainability requires a comprehensive approach that reduces waste, minimises water usage, and adopts renewable energy sources. Consumer awareness and demand for sustainable fashion are also needed, as well as collaboration among industry stakeholders. To overcome these challenges, the industry must invest in innovation and reimagine its practices.
How do you think technology and innovation can play a role in promoting sustainability within the fashion industry?
Our innovative technology of zero-waste manufacturing can play a significant role in promoting sustainability within the fashion industry. In our most recent collaboration with ZANECOM, we have worked together in creating a Zero Waste Automated Fashion Manufacturing system. A machine and a program like ours hold significant potential for the future. If more companies choose to invest in our technology, they could substantially reduce their waste output, with averages decreasing to around 15 per cent. This not only leads to tangible, efficient operations but also cultivates sustainability awareness right from the production stage.
Can you discuss the concept of ‘slow fashion’ and how it might influence future trends in the industry?
Slow fashion encourages consumers to develop a more mindful and conscious approach to fashion, considering the social and environmental implications of their choices.
We can expect to see a rise in demand for timeless and versatile designs, as well as a focus on local production and artisanal craftsmanship.
Slow fashion may also inspire innovative business models that prioritise the durability, repairability, and recyclability of garments.
With increasing awareness about the environmental impact of the fashion industry, do you believe there is a significant shift in consumer behaviour towards buying more sustainable clothing?
Increasingly, consumers are becoming aware of the environmental and social issues associated with fast fashion, like pollution, waste, and poor working conditions. Sustainable alternatives are becoming more popular because of this awareness. As a result, consumers are increasingly valuing sustainability and ethical considerations in their purchasing decisions, and are willing to invest in higher-quality, longer-lasting garments that align with their values, even if it means paying a higher price.
How can consumers contribute to promoting more sustainable practices in the fashion industry?
Prominent figures such as celebrities and influencers, along with media platforms, can play a crucial role in encouraging sustainability in the fashion industry. By advocating for and promoting ethical brands, they can spread awareness about conscious consumption. They can also highlight the appeal of sustainable clothing options, thus driving demand for more responsible fashion practices.
How did the idea for ZEROBARRACENTO come about and what motivated you to venture into sustainable fashion?
My fascination with visiting textile companies dates back to my time as a master’s student. It was then that I witnessed the immense waste generated by the fashion industry. This experience led me to dedicate my personal and professional efforts towards reducing production waste. Consequently, ZEROBARRACENTO was born, with its core principles being 0% waste, 100% transparency and traceability.
Your website states: “ZEROBARRACENTO is not here to revolutionise, but restructure the fashion industry”. Can you elaborate on what you mean by restructuring and how you plan to achieve this?
ZEROBARRACENTO does not revolutionise but restructure (re-shape) the values of the textile and fashion industry, freeing itself from seasonal trends and restrictions imposed by age and gender, giving life to a product that can embrace and accompany anyone who chooses it at different stages of their life, adapting to changes in body, style and personality: a uniform of identity, at the same time armour and protection.
The brand revolutionises the production process and the decisions involved in creating a collection, with each aspect meticulously planned to achieve zero waste. Our commitment extends across all aspects of the process, with products made from single-type fibres that incorporate selvedges and exclude hard-to-dismantle accessories. We advocate for quality over quantity, uniqueness instead of mass production, and traceability and transparency as opposed to closed, opaque practices.
ZEROBARRACENTO does not judge but welcomes, does not exclude but includes, does not waste but values. Our brand is founded on the principle of creating enduring pieces designed to be passed down through generations. We adhere to a timeless aesthetic with minimalistic designs, drawing inspiration from the arts and architecture. Our creations are continually evolving, with a primary focus on the material itself, brought to life through cuts, folds, draperies, and soft, deconstructed shapes.
Can you explain your zero-waste approach to design? How do you ensure every piece produced has minimal waste?
Our unique pattern development process conserves fabric by using it entirely throughout the garment design stage. This innovative design technique allows for garments to be made without any wasted material at the design stage, which is usually around 15 per cent.
Combining sustainable materials research with selvedges as an aesthetic addition gives you a refined and intriguing design. There are no buttons, zippers, or hooks – just a few seams for easier disassembling. Designing mono-material products, when feasible, allow easier recycling at the end of their lives.
How do you source your materials and ensure that they are not just high-quality, but also sustainable and traceable?
Our mindful manufacturing means choosing factories that are near the raw materials. So, there’s less traveling involved. We also choose our suppliers based on the regions and cities we know that hold the most expertise in working with sustainable materials.
“ZEROBARRACENTO garments are seasonless and made for longevity”. How do you ensure your designs remain timeless and durable without compromising on style?
At ZEROBARRACENTO, ensuring that our designs remain timeless and durable without compromising on style is at the core of our approach. Our brand stands firmly on the pillars of timeless design principles and superior craftsmanship. We prioritise the selection of sustainable materials that are not only ethically sourced, but also versatile and adaptable. We design our garments to be versatile, allowing them to be styled in multiple ways to suit different occasions.
Tell us about your commitment to the Sustainability Pledge from UNECE. How does this commitment influence your production process?
A commitment has been made to The Sustainability Pledge from UNECE to improve sustainable and ethical practices in the garment and footwear sector as well as support the transition to a more circular economy and reduce the amount of waste produced. This commitment doesn’t just influence the production process but mainly reassures our consumers that we are doing our part 24/7. From the beginning, ZEROBARRCENTO has been fully transparent with our consumers, and having this pledge shows our dedication.
We consistently extend our focus towards maintaining a fully traceable supply chain, meticulously selecting sustainable materials, and utilising eco-friendly packaging. As a smaller brand, we exercise rigorous control over our suppliers to ensure adherence to our sustainability standards.
What significance does being a part of the Sustainable Brand Platform community hold for you and your brand?
Being a part of the Sustainable Brand Platform community validates that our brand’s values align with the highest standards of sustainability. It demonstrates that our efforts to prioritise eco-friendly practices, ethical sourcing, and social responsibility are recognised and appreciated by industry experts and like-minded peers.
Recognition from the Sustainable Brand Platform community enhances our brand’s credibility and builds trust among our customers, partners, and stakeholders. It reassures them that our sustainability claims are not mere marketing tactics but are backed by a rigorous assessment and verification process.
Can you explain your approach towards sustainable packaging? How do you ensure the packaging materials align with the sustainability ethos of the brand?
To ensure that the packaging materials align with the sustainability ethos of the brand, we meticulously select eco-friendly materials sourced from renewable resources and prioritise recyclability or biodegradability.
The compostable mailers are made from a combination of PBAT, a bio-based polymer that is compostable, and PLA which is made up of plant materials such as regular field corn and wheat straw. These are certified and incredibly low-impact resources.
How do you balance the need for sustainability with producing garments that are high-quality, luxurious, and aesthetically pleasing?
The idea behind the pieces is that they must be chameleonic and get the “shape” of the body and of the personality who is wearing it. Not the opposite. This is what we call: A silent luxury. Our vision is to create a safe space within clothing for all ages and genders while building a zero-waste supply chain. Every product is made to be durable and to evoke a powerful emotional response in the consumer.
Can you describe your experience working with Italian artisans and factories? How do they contribute to the quality and sustainability of your garments?
To us, ‘Made in Italy’ is a value choice; it represents the means to be able to trace every step of production, collaborating with excellent suppliers and open to change. We have really positive collaborations ongoing with companies such as Brunello, A. Stelloni Collection by Mapel, Maeba International and Manteco just to mention a few. These companies are committed as we are to make premium, excellent and responsible products and processes.
Can you describe your experience working with Italian artisans and factories? How do they contribute to the quality and sustainability of your garments?
We are relentlessly striving to expand our business without compromising our core values. Furthermore, we are collaborating with the startup, Xylene, to trace our entire supply chain using blockchain technology, enhancing our commitment to transparency and sustainability.
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