Eco-friendly fashion faces geographical barriers in returns: Study

New research conducted by the University of Birmingham, in collaboration with the University of Bristol and two American institutions, the University of Georgia and Buffalo State University, examines how these initiatives in the activewear sector are influenced by geography. The findings, published in the Cambridge Journal of Regions, Economy and Society, reveal that location plays a crucial role in the success of these ‘Waste Reduction Networks’.

The fashion industry is one of the world's largest polluters, with fast fashion contributing significantly to waste. According to the European Parliament, less than half of used clothes are collected for reuse or recycling, and only 1 per cent are recycled into new garments. In response to increasing awareness of the environmental impact, some companies have introduced initiatives to extend the lifespan of clothing, including repair services and trade-in schemes.

Professor John Bryson from the University of Birmingham commented, “Activewear is an area of the fashion market that is growing dramatically as consumers become more aware of healthy lifestyles. Often these products and brands associate themselves with a broader environmental ethic - such as encouraging consumers to have a closer relationship with nature, which can be reflected in product advertising.”

The study examined 17 eco-friendly activewear companies across Europe and the US that implemented circular economy policies. Researchers found that while companies like éclipse, Filippa K, and Girlfriend Collective offer return schemes aligned with sustainability principles, these are largely limited to domestic customers. "It is not practical to think that a customer in the UK is going to pay for something to be sent all the way to Colorado, which would have an environmental impact. These Waste Reduction Networks are only really effective for those who can easily access them,” noted Professor Vida Vanchan.

The research highlights that many of these companies, despite selling internationally, have Waste Reduction Networks that operate only on a local, regional, or national level. The limitations are even more pronounced in mending services, with companies like Veja offering repair services only in specific locations, despite having a global retail presence.

Professor Bryson concluded, “All the activewear companies we looked at have taken steps to improve their environmental impacts and reduce waste, and that is to be applauded. However, we have found that the consumer Waste Reduction Networks offered by these companies are very limited by geography. Despite the fact that a lot of these companies sell their products internationally, the Waste Reduction Networks only operate on a local, regional or at most national level.”

To overcome these challenges, the study suggests that companies could partner with platforms like e-Bay, Vinted, or Depop, which are popular among eco-conscious consumers. Additionally, government support for waste management systems could ensure that more clothing is recycled rather than sent to landfill, helping to scale these initiatives to meet the environmental challenges posed by waste clothing.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (KD)