The courtyard of the palazzo was transformed into a verdant oasis of calm: an aesthetically soothing landscape of gentle reliefs in a city defined by its hustle and bustle. Models walked along an organic, winding runway through the botanical scenery, further evoking a contrast between traditional corporate dress structures and the concept of 5-9 escapism.
“For Spring/Summer 2025 we’ve reinvented suiting—the epitome of BOSS’s tailoring heritage—with a softer approach, where the silhouette is dictated by the wearer’s body, leaving more room for freedom and expression of individuality,” says Marco Falcioni, SVP of Creative Direction at HUGO BOSS. “We’ve stepped away from traditional double-breasted power suits, whose sharp cuts define the silhouette and are perceived as an inflexible shield around the wearer. This season, the hero piece is the understated three-button suit in lighter fabrics, gently wrapping the body without the constructs of shoulder-pads and constrictive internal structures. This is a reset: A real BOSS is empowered and self-confident; they know when to log off and claim back their time, go out and relax, free from the hierarchy of rules and regulations.”
The collection reflects the overall ethos derived from this removal of structure, while inviting a sophisticated sense of off-the-clock decompression. This is seen—for the first time ever on the BOSS runway—in the inclusion of sporty style elements and accessories, such as drawstring cinching mechanisms, yoga mats, and tennis racket bags, as well as selected pieces that draw inspiration from sleepwear, such as pajamas and dressing gowns.
Trouser hems were raised above the ankle across womenswear looks, while other standout elements such as blazers, skirts, dresses, and trench coats offer the wearer increased freedom of movement through wrapped construction and elegant draping. Tailoring darts were added to traditionally casual cuts such as bomber jackets to create voluminous sleeves, and paired with drawstring-embellished tops and hoodies. A backless, wrapped tunic dress stood out with its draped frontal pleating and a neckline skimming the lower back. Luxe fabrics ranged from wool to silk and leather. Accessories featured a more laid-back approach that broke with traditional formal styles, in the form of pashminas and collapsed hobo bags, while most shoes featured gently rounded toes—in contrast to the strong points and squared-off shapes of earlier collections.
In addition to the three-button suits, menswear saw more casual shirting silhouettes, such as single-pocket styles with concealed button plackets and drawstring hems, paired with tailored trousers with lengths extending just beyond the knee. Evening-ready pieces include deconstructed tailored coats and jackets in silk with shawl lapels and piping finishes. Footwear includes low-profile sneakers or leather slides with a slipper look and feel—both crafted in Italian leather. For finishing touches, in addition to pashminas and flat caps, men’s accessories saw the removal of traditionally structural confines, such that pieces were collapsed, as seen in the form of slouchy briefcases, document holders, and sports-inspired bags.
The color palette delivers a relaxed range of hues, including light and navy blues, earthen browns, white, black, and even subdued variations of green, among other tones.
The new Spring/Summer 2025 collection was unveiled on September 18 in a surreal garden setting. All-star athletes and celebrities such as Taylor Fritz, Matteo Berrettini, Alica Schmidt, Nicolò Martinenghi, Loris Karius, and Miles Chamley-Watson, walked in the “out-of-office”-inspired show, as did social media sensation Khaby Lame, and Thai actor Mew Suppasit. Meanwhile, David Beckham attended his first BOSS runway presentation since the announcement of his strategic partnership with the brand.
Other front-row attendees included a range of talents from across the creative spectrum, such as Khalid, Kaya Scodelario, Micheal Ward, Jamie Campbell Bower, João Guilherme Ávila, and Maia Mitchell.
Fibre2Fashion News Desk (RM)