This extremely thin fabric, which moves softly with air, is known in Japan as ‘Tennyo no Hagoromo’ (means ‘feathered robe of a heavenly maiden’ in Japanese) Woven from ultra-fine threads about one-fifth the thickness of a human hair (approximately 1/40th of a millimetre), this fabric is incredibly light, weighing only five grams per square meter (100 cm x 100 cm). We spoke with Amaike Yuki of Amaike, who developed the weaving technology for these ultra-fine threads.

“This thread was originally developed for use in plasma TVs, but it was so thin that it would break easily, making it difficult to weave. Our company, known for its expertise in developing weaving techniques for challenging new materials, received an inquiry from a thread manufacturer about realising successful weaving with this thread. With our state-of-the-art weaving machines already in place, we began working on developing the weaving technology needed for this thread,” said Amaike.

It was determined that the main cause of the ultra-fine thread breaking was static electricity generated by the friction during weaving. To overcome this, the temperature and humidity in the weaving area were carefully managed to reduce static electricity. At the same time, various thread densities and weaving techniques were experimented with, and repeated prototyping and evaluation were conducted. The weaving machines were also upgraded, and their parts modified to handle the ultra-fine thread more effectively, the Japanese government said on its website.

“In 2006, after several years of such effort, we succeeded in weaving ultra-thin fabrics and expanded our facilities to begin production. However, about a year later, the client went bankrupt. As a result, we decided to target the fashion industry and undertake product development and sales in-house,” explained Amaike.

Since dyeing and sewing are necessary for fashion applications, we tried to outsource these tasks to specialised contractors. However, because the thread was too specialised, it could not be handled effectively by the contractors. As such, dyeing and sewing techniques had to be developed in-house. Adjustments to dye types, moisture levels, and fabric quantities were made through repeated trial and error. For the sewing threads, a thread suitable for ultra-thin fabrics was developed to avoid visible seams, and adjustments to the sewing machines were carried out. As a result, by around 2010, integrated manufacturing from weaving to dyeing and sewing was achieved.

“After receiving positive feedback from showing our products to international brands, we began exhibiting at overseas trade shows. This led to an increase in international clients. The unique movement and shine of the fabric have been highly praised, and in recent years, our fabrics have been used by well-known European fashion brands, in costumes for the Paris Opera, and for figure skaters,” explained Amaike.

In fact, the company is currently suffering from the aftereffects of the major earthquake that struck in January 2024 (the Noto Peninsula Earthquake). The earthquake damaged the factory and equipment, causing production and shipments to stop temporarily. Although production has resumed, repairs to the factory are not yet complete. Nevertheless, the company must continue to move forward with reconstruction, so it is seeking support through crowdfunding services.

“We will continue to develop new products utilising our unique fabrics, engaging in communication with our customers, and aim to bring them joy,” said Amaike.

Fibre2Fashion News Desk (RR)