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Interview with Ruchika Mehta

Ruchika Mehta
Ruchika Mehta
Founder
Dahlia
Dahlia

Our designs are crafted to transcend fleeting trends
Dahlia is a sustainable fashion label that marries the timeless beauty of handwoven fabrics with contemporary design to offer a capsule wardrobe for women who value style, comfort, and ethical fashion. Inspired by the grace and diversity of the Dahlia flower, this brand stands as a testament to lasting fashion, environmental respect, and a commitment to Indian weaving traditions, aiming to make a positive impact on both the planet and its people. In a conversation with Fibre2Fashion, Founder Ruchika Mehta discusses sustainable fashion and body inclusivity.

How do you see consumer attitudes towards sustainable fashion evolving in the coming years, and what role do you think brands play in shaping these attitudes?

My observation is that there is a notable shift in consumer attitudes towards sustainable fashion, and I anticipate this trend will continue to evolve in the coming years. One significant factor contributing to this change is the increasing awareness among consumers. There is a wealth of information available regarding the environmental and social impacts of the fashion industry. As consumers become more informed about the consequences of their choices, the emphasis on sustainable practices is likely to grow.
Moreover, the younger generation, particularly millennials, has emerged as a driving force in prioritising sustainability and ethical production methods in their purchasing decisions. As these individuals, with their distinct values and preferences, become a larger share of the consumer market, their influence is expected to play a crucial role in shaping attitudes towards sustainable fashion.
Brands also play a pivotal role in this evolution by not only meeting the rising demand for sustainable options but also by actively promoting and educating consumers about the importance of making environmentally and socially conscious choices in their fashion purchases. As brands align themselves with these values and contribute to the sustainability narrative, they become key influencers in shaping the future trajectory of consumer attitudes towards fashion.
 

How do you think advancements in technology and innovation can help drive sustainability initiatives within the fashion industry?

Advancements in technology and innovation hold significant potential for driving sustainability initiatives within the fashion industry across various dimensions:
Production of Sustainable Materials: Technological advancements enable the creation of new sustainable materials, like plant-based alternatives, recycled fibres from consumer waste, and bio-based materials derived from renewable sources, which contribute to diminishing the environmental impact of the fashion industry.
Efficiency in Resource Utilisation: Technology promotes efficiency in the fashion design and production process by minimising waste material and optimising product design. Through advanced manufacturing techniques, precision cutting, and 3D modelling, technology helps reduce the environmental impact of fashion industry.
Circular Economy Initiatives: Technological innovations facilitate the adoption of a circular economy model in the fashion industry. Products are designed to be reused, repaired, or recycled at the end of their life cycle. This includes initiatives like garment-to-garment recycling, digital platforms for clothing resale and rental, and automated sorting systems for textile waste. Technology plays a crucial role in creating closed-loop systems, reducing the overall environmental impact of fashion.
Transparency and Traceability: Technological solutions, such as blockchain, can enhance transparency and traceability in the fashion supply chain.
Data Analytics for Sustainable Decision-Making: Data analytics powered by technology can assist fashion brands in making informed decisions regarding sustainability. It allows for a comprehensive analysis of the environmental footprint of different materials, production processes, and supply chain practices, enabling companies to prioritise sustainable alternatives.

What considerations should clothing brands take into account when designing garments to accommodate various body types and sizes?

Clothing brands should consider the following factors when designing garments to accommodate various body types and sizes:
Size Range: Offer a diverse range of sizes, covering a broad spectrum of body types, including petite and plus sizes. Ensure proportional grading to fit different body types accurately.
Fit and Proportion: Design garments with consideration for different body proportions, including waist-to-hip ratio, torso length, and shoulder width. Pay attention to details such as darts, seam placement, sleeve length, and ensure the garment flatters various body shapes.
Adjustable Features: Include adjustable features like elastic waistbands, belts, and adjustable straps to accommodate small fluctuations in body size. Provide a customisable fit in both silhouette and design.
Silhouette and Design: Offer a variety of sizes and styles that complement different body shapes. Consider design elements such as neckline shape, sleeve length, and hemlines to enhance overall proportions and balance.
Fabric Selection: Choose fabrics that provide comfort and accommodate body movement. The right fabric contributes to a garment that feels comfortable and is functional for different body types.
Fit Testing on Diverse Body Types: Conduct fit tests on a diverse range of body types to ensure that each design flatters different sizes and proportions. This ensures that the garment looks and feels good on a wide array of body shapes.

How can clothing brands effectively balance the desire for trendy, seasonal fashion with the need for sustainable and timeless wardrobe staples?

Clothing brands can effectively balance the desire for trendy, seasonal fashion with the need for sustainable and timeless wardrobe staples through the following strategies:
Sustainable Materials: Prioritise the use of eco-friendly materials such as organic cotton, linen, and recycled fibres for all garments, irrespective of style or seasonality.
Quality Over Quantity: Focus on producing high-quality, well-made garments designed to last beyond a single season. Emphasise timeless silhouettes and classic designs that remain stylish year after year.
Create Versatile Pieces: Design garments that are versatile and can be styled in multiple ways, transitioning seamlessly between seasons and occasions. Adaptable features and convertible styles enhance wearability.
Introduce Capsule Collections: Offer essential wardrobe staples in addition to seasonal trends. Capsule collections concentrate on timeless pieces that form the foundation of a sustainable wardrobe, complemented by a few on-trend items for variety.
Embrace Slow Fashion Principles: Promote mindful consumption by producing pieces to order rather than mass production. Implement circular economy initiatives by encouraging rental, resale, and repair services to extend the lifespan of clothing and minimise waste.

What are some common misconceptions about sustainable fashion, and how can brands work to educate consumers about the realities of ethical clothing production?

Common misconceptions about sustainable fashion and how brands can educate consumers about ethical clothing production include:
First, there is a misconception that sustainable fashion is always expensive due to use of eco-friendly materials and ethical labour practices. However, in reality, while the initial costs may be higher, sustainable pieces often last longer, making the per-wear cost lower. Brands can communicate the long-term value and durability of their products.
Second, there is a misconception that sustainable fashion lacks variety and style and offers limited style and options. In reality, sustainable brands offer a diverse range of trendy and classic designs, catering to different tastes. Brands can showcase their diverse collections to dispel this myth.
Third, there is a misconception that in order to be sustainable, everything in the wardrobe must be eco-friendly. On the other hand, sustainability is a journey, and small changes can have a significant impact. Brands can emphasise that every sustainable choice, no matter how small, contributes to positive change.
The fourth misconception is that sustainable fashion compromises on quality. However, many sustainable brands prioritise quality craftsmanship and durable materials, resulting in products that last longer. Brands can highlight their commitment to quality to dispel this misconception.
Educating consumers about these realities involves transparent communication, providing information on materials and production practices, and showcasing the durability and versatility of sustainable fashion. By addressing these misconceptions, brands can foster a better understanding of ethical clothing production.

What inspired the creation of Dahlia and its focus on creating a streamlined capsule wardrobe?

The inception of Dahlia finds its roots in my experiences during college while studying fashion design, particularly the impactful visits to various clusters. These encounters ignited a creative spark within me, compelling me to establish Dahlia as a brand that not only celebrates traditional craftsmanship but also places a strong emphasis on sustainability and timeless style.
The decision to focus on creating a streamlined capsule wardrobe was motivated by a dual purpose. Firstly, I aimed to redefine the concept of a capsule wardrobe, infusing it with versatility and a fresh perspective. Secondly, I wanted every piece crafted by Dahlia to seamlessly integrate with existing wardrobe staples. Our goal is to offer a curated collection that not only simplifies the process of dressing but also encourages sustainability by ensuring each piece stands the test of time and effortlessly complements other wardrobe essentials.

How does the brand balance comfort and style in its clothing offerings?

At Dahlia, achieving a harmonious balance between comfort and style is the cornerstone of our design philosophy. We meticulously consider both the aesthetic allure and the practical aspects of our garments, aiming for a blend that enhances the overall experience for our customers. We achieve this delicate balance through:
Choice of High-Quality Fabrics: We prioritise high-quality fabrics that not only exhibit visual appeal but also offer exceptional comfort. Fabrics such as cotton and linen, often naturally dyed, are carefully selected to ensure a comfortable wear and an attractive look.
Thoughtful Design for Comfort: Our design process places a strong emphasis on ensuring that our clothes not only look good but also feel comfortable to wear. Each garment is crafted with attention to fit, allowing for ease of movement. Incorporating pockets into our designs is a deliberate choice, providing both functionality and comfort to women by allowing them to conveniently carry small items.
Attention to Style Details: In addressing the second aspect of your question, we pay meticulous attention to design elements that contribute to the overall style and visual appeal of our garments. Details such as silhouette, cut, and embellishments are carefully curated to ensure that each piece reflects a sense of style and sophistication.

Can you elaborate on Dahlia’s commitment to slow fashion and what that entails for the brand?

Dahlia is steadfast in its commitment to slow fashion, a dedication that manifests in various aspects of our brand ethos. Dahlia’s commitment to slow fashion entails:
Utilisation of Hand-Woven Fabrics: We consciously opt for hand-woven fabrics in our creations. Hand weaving is a labour-intensive, traditional technique that does not rely on electricity for production. This choice aligns with our commitment to sustainability by reducing the ecological footprint associated with conventional manufacturing processes.
Environmentally Friendly Dyeing Practices: We are mindful of the environmental impact of our dyeing processes. Dahlia ensures that all fabrics are dyed in azo-free dyes, which are less harmful to the environment. Additionally, our preference for natural dyes further underscores our commitment to eco-friendly practices, minimising the use of chemicals in our production.
Designing Timeless Pieces: Dahlia takes a deliberate approach to design, focusing on creating quality, timeless pieces. Our designs are crafted to transcend fleeting trends, ensuring that the garments remain stylish and relevant for years to come. This commitment to longevity enhances the usability of our garments, contributing to a more sustainable and responsible approach to fashion.
Reducing Fashion Waste: By designing pieces that withstand the test of time, Dahlia actively contributes to the reduction of fashion waste. Fast fashion often leads to the disposal of clothing after short periods, contributing to environmental issues. Our commitment to slow fashion aims to counter this trend by encouraging mindful consumption and the appreciation of enduring style.

What steps does Dahlia take to ensure the longevity of its clothing and prevent them from going out of fashion?

To guarantee the longevity of clothing and prevent them from succumbing to fleeting trends, we implement several meticulous steps:
High-Quality Fabrics: Our commitment to longevity begins with the selection of premium fabrics. In our initial collection, we have utilised malkha and ikat, both being hand-woven natural fabrics. These fabrics, in contrast to industrial finishes, not only provide a luxurious feel but also contribute to the enduring quality of the garments.
Precision in Stitching: Careful attention is given to the construction of our garments. Instead of opting for overlock stitches that may be prone to tearing, we employ French seams. This meticulous stitching technique enhances the strength and durability of the garment, ensuring that it withstands the test of time.
Detail-Oriented Quality Checks: Before reaching our customers, each garment undergoes thorough quality checks. We pay meticulous attention to details, ensuring that every aspect of the garment meets our high standards. This dedication to quality control is fundamental in maintaining the longevity and excellence of our clothing.
Timeless Designs: Our approach to design is rooted in timelessness rather than chasing ephemeral trends. We focus on crafting classic silhouettes, versatile styles, and embrace a minimalistic aesthetic. By steering clear of passing trends, we create garments that remain relevant season after season. This dedication to enduring design principles ensures that our clothing stands the test of time, transcending the cyclical nature of fashion trends.

How does the company incorporate sustainability into its clothing production processes?

Dahlia is deeply committed to incorporating sustainability into its clothing production processes, a vital consideration in today’s conscientious business landscape. Our approach to sustainability encompasses material selection, ethical sourcing, waste reduction, and environmentally friendly dyeing practices. By integrating these practices into our production processes, we strive to contribute positively to both the fashion industry and the broader environment. The key practices we follow are:
Use of Sustainable Materials: We prioritise eco-friendly materials, such as cotton and handloom, in our clothing production. These materials are not only sustainable but also recyclable and biodegradable, minimising the environmental impact. Additionally, we utilise natural dyes, further contributing to the recyclability and eco-friendliness of our fabrics.
Ethical Sourcing and Supporting Handloom: Ethical sourcing is a cornerstone of our production philosophy. We establish direct connections with weavers to source fabrics, actively supporting the handloom industry and preserving traditional craftsmanship. This practice helps sustain a system that is at risk of extinction, ensuring the livelihoods of skilled artisans.
Waste Reduction Strategies: Dahlia is committed to minimising waste throughout the production process. We employ pattern optimisation techniques to reduce fabric waste. Moreover, any generated waste is carefully managed, with efforts made to send it back for reweaving by the skilled artisans. This not only minimises waste but also fosters a circular economy by reutilising materials.
Environmental Sustainability in Hand-Woven Fabrics: Hand-woven fabrics play a significant role in our commitment to environmental sustainability. Traditional hand-weaving techniques require minimal electricity compared to industrial manufacturing processes, reducing our carbon footprint. By opting for hand-woven textiles, Dahlia actively supports sustainable practices in the textile industry.
Chemical-Free and Natural Dyes: Our dedication to sustainability extends to the choice of dyes. Dahlia employs chemical-free and natural dyes in our production processes. This choice eliminates the usage of harmful pollutants that can damage the environment, aligning with our commitment to responsible and eco-conscious practices.

Could you explain the significance of using hand-woven fabrics with chemical-free dyes in Dahlia’s collections?

Utilising hand-woven fabrics with chemical-free dyes in our collections holds profound significance for several key reasons:
Environmental Sustainability: Hand-woven fabrics involve traditional techniques that demand minimal electricity compared to industrial manufacturing processes. By choosing hand-woven textiles, Dahlia significantly reduces its carbon footprint and actively supports sustainable practices in the textile industry. This commitment aligns with broader environmental sustainability goals.
Elimination of Harmful Pollutants: Chemical-free and natural dyes used in Dahlia’s collections play a crucial role in protecting the environment. These dyes eliminate the usage of harmful pollutants that could contaminate waterways and harm ecosystems. By opting for eco-friendly dyeing methods, Dahlia contributes to the preservation of water quality and overall environmental health.
Preservation of Craftsmanship: The use of hand-woven fabrics is not only about sustainability but also about preserving traditional craftsmanship. In an era where handwoven skills are diminishing, Dahlia’s choice to incorporate these fabrics celebrates and sustains artisanal communities. This commitment goes beyond fashion; it becomes a form of cultural preservation, supporting the livelihoods of skilled craftsmen.
Unique Texture and Richness: Hand-woven fabrics possess a unique texture, depth, and richness that set them apart. This distinctiveness becomes a hallmark of Dahlia’s collections, enhancing the brand’s identity. The use of hand-woven textiles offers customers a sense of exclusivity and authenticity in their clothing choices, contributing to a deeper connection between the brand and its consumers.

What is the process of sourcing materials directly from weavers, and how does it contribute to the brand’s ethos?

Sourcing materials directly from weavers involves several steps, each aligning with Dahlia’s brand ethos:
Craft and Community Identification: Dahlia starts by identifying the specific craft for a collection and locating the artisan community practicing that craft, often situated in specific regions or villages.
Building Direct Relationships: The brand establishes direct relationships with individual weavers or cooperatives, visiting them in their regions, participating in local fairs, and connecting through artisan networks.
Understanding Techniques and Materials: Close collaboration with weavers includes understanding traditional weaving techniques, looms, natural fibres, and dyeing processes unique to each community.
Fair Compensation: Dahlia ensures weavers receive fair compensation by negotiating prices that reflect the value of their craftsmanship, even if it involves paying higher prices compared to mass-produced fabrics.
Custom Design Collaboration: Collaborating with weavers, Dahlia develops custom designs or adapts traditional patterns to align with the brand’s aesthetic and target market, creating unique fabrics that merge brand style and cultural heritage.
Empowering Artisan Communities: Direct sourcing empowers artisans, supporting sustainable livelihoods and preserving traditional crafts. This commitment to fair practices aligns with Dahlia’s ethos of ethical and sustainable fashion.
Additionally, Dahlia takes measures to minimise waste throughout the garment production lifecycle by designing efficiently. This involves optimising pattern layouts during cutting to reduce fabric wastage, demonstrating a commitment to responsible and sustainable practices in the fashion industry.

How do you ensure that Dahlia’s clothing is suitable for various body types and sizes?

At Dahlia, we prioritise inclusivity to ensure our clothing suits various body types and sizes in several ways.
Comprehensive Size Range: Dahlia offers an extensive size range, spanning from extra small to 2XL and 3XL, ensuring inclusivity and accommodating diverse body types.
Fit Testing on Various Body Types: Before finalising any design, we conduct fit tests on a range of body types to ensure that the clothing fits well and flatters different shapes. Fit models representing various sizes are used to assess how the garments will look on different body types.
Adjustable Features: Our designs often incorporate adjustable features such as belts, elastic bands, or adjustable straps. These elements allow customers to customise the fit of their clothing according to their body shape and preferences.
Offering Custom Sizes and Alterations: Dahlia understands that one size does not fit all. We offer custom sizes based on customers’ body measurements. Additionally, we provide alteration services, allowing customers to further customise the fit of their garments, ensuring a perfect fit regardless of body type or proportions.
Inclusive Design Principles: Throughout the design process, we adhere to inclusive design principles. This involves selecting silhouettes, cuts, and details that are universally flattering and accommodating, considering the varied needs and preferences of our diverse customer base.

What measures does the company take to minimise waste throughout the garment production lifecycle?

To minimise waste throughout the garment production lifecycle, we implement several measures, including:
Efficient Design: We prioritise efficient design by aiming to minimise fabric wastage during the cutting process. This involves optimising pattern layouts to reduce fabric usage and minimise leftover scraps.
Made-to-Order Production: There is no mass production. Instead, each piece is made to order, ensuring low wastage of fabric and minimising excess inventory. This approach aligns with our commitment to sustainability and reduces the amount of fabric leftover from production.
Use of Sustainable Materials: We use sustainable materials in our production processes. This includes utilising eco-friendly fabrics and materials that have minimal environmental impact.
Recycling and Upcycling: Dahlia actively recycles and upcycles production waste and unused materials. This involves repurposing fabric scraps into new fabric or creating new products from unused materials. By repurposing materials, we reduce waste and contribute to a more sustainable production process.

How does Dahlia plan to expand its offerings to incorporate a wider range of Indian weaves while maintaining its brand essence?

We plan to expand Dahlia’s offerings by incorporating a broader range of Indian weaves while staying true to our brand essence. The strategy involves a balanced fusion of tradition and contemporary design. 
Identification of Suitable Indian Weaves: The process is initiated by identifying Indian weaves that align with the brand’s values and design philosophy. This careful selection ensures that each weave resonates with the essence of the brand.
Collaboration with Artisans and Weaving Communities: This is a crucial step. We engage directly with artisans and weaving communities to understand the cultural significance and techniques behind each weave. This collaboration allows the brand to appreciate and respect the rich heritage associated with these traditional textiles.
Customisation and Adaptation: We take a thoughtful approach to weave customisation. Indian weaves are adapted to align with a modern and sophisticated aesthetic, ensuring that the brand essence is maintained. This involves experimenting with colour combinations, incorporating unique details, and integrating these weaves into contemporary silhouettes.
Incorporating Traditional Elements into Contemporary Designs: Our approach is to seamlessly blend traditional elements with contemporary design. We do not merely use traditional fabrics; instead, we incorporate these weaves into modern and versatile silhouettes. This approach was successfully implemented in the first collection, where traditional fabrics were transformed into contemporary pieces.
Interviewer: Shilpi Panjabi
Published on: 28/03/2024

DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.