Dr. Greg Altman
Co-founder & CEO Evolved by Nature
Our goal is to have a sustainable finish on every leather article
Evolved by Nature is a biotech company creating a healthier future. Among other things, it creates sustainable chemicals for leather and textiles. It offers leather finishing system for all types of leather that uses naturally derived Activated Silk biotechnology as an alternative to harmful petrochemicals. In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, Evolved by Nature Co-founder & CEO Dr. Greg Altman discusses how their technology will help the fashion industry to use PFAs free and eventually plastic-free leather.
What, according to you, makes a brand ‘truly’ sustainable?
Sustainability, at a brand level, is a broad set of guidelines that all deserve equal consideration. It really is a measure of being beneficial rather than harmful to people, and the planet. So first and foremost, if you are putting a product out into the world, you need to be replacing any toxic, hazardous or otherwise disruptive chemical ingredients in that product with natural, biobased, biodegradable alternatives that don’t take a toll on the people and the planet.
Secondly it is looking at the resources you utilise to generate those ingredients. For example, are you using renewable energy and renewable resources? Are you striving towards carbon neutrality in the operations of your business? Are you employing human beings in a safe and equitable environment that is inclusive in every way? Are you having a positive or neutral effect on the water cycle?
The UNSDGs might be the most comprehensive guidelines we know of to define the goals of sustainability, and we are proud to say that Evolved By Nature and its Activated Silk biotechnology helps or contributes to 8 of those 17 goals.
What inspired Evolved By Nature to get into sustainable biotechnology for textiles?
It all starts with the Activated Silk molecules that comprise our biotechnology research and development. These molecules, while being a sustainably sourced, natural, biobased ingredient, have profound benefits in the realm of barrier boosting with human skin. So it stood to reason that it could do the same with other barriers in human experience, like leather and textiles. Knowing the sheer scale of the leather industry, and the fact that almost every article of leather made over the last century is a piece of plastic in disguise, we saw not only an opportunity, but a responsibility, to bring per- or polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAs) free leather, and eventually plastic-free leather, to market. It’s in line with who we are as a company. Make things that are better for people and the planet.
Can you tell us more about the development of your Activated Silk L1 biodegradable leather finish? What was the inspiration behind this technology, and what challenges did you face during its creation?
As I mentioned, we saw the opportunity to create petrochemical free leather finishing by replacing harmful forever chemicals with Activated Silk biotechnology. We quickly discovered that the performance metrics of our finishing system equalled or exceeded what a lot of petrochemical finishes can do. The challenge was to meet the needs of a long-standing marketplace, and deliver the same look, feel and flexibility that the market already relies on. We had to promise that we are an even swap quality-wise while being a giant step forward sustainability-wise.
How does Activated Silk L1 compare to traditional leather finishes in terms of performance, quality, and durability?
The standard metrics for testing the quality of a leather finish – bally flex testing, which measures how many times you can flex it while maintaining the material integrity of the article, as well as CFR wet vesilic – colour fast to rubbing which measures how long the leather will maintain its surface – show exceptional results in both instances, often exceeding what plastic-based finishing can accomplish. It’s also remarkably resistant, not only to water, but to everything from coffee to ketchup or wine or mustard. We also engineered some auxiliaries in the system that will help achieve the desired look, feel and colour for whatever kind of article you are making. And consumers won’t know the difference.
What kind of feedback have you received from fashion brands or consumers who have used products finished with Activated Silk L1?
We have been fortunate to have great feedback from the fashion world and consumers. We have done several capsule collaborations with designers such as Jonathan Cohen, Patrick McDowell, Grace Ling, Anya Hindmarch and even the Shoe Surgeon. The results of each of those collaborations have been overwhelmingly positive, because the creative possibilities are, in some cases, even greater with L1 as a finishing system. Designers seem to love not only the sustainability but the ability to work with colour, texture and patterns in a completely uninhibited way. One of our designers has even placed a piece in the permanent collection at FIT’s fashion museum.
Bigger brand support has been very strong so far, and we are in the process of helping their tanneries industrialise this new finishing system at scale. We are still in the presale process and are under NDA (non-disclosure agreement) with all of our early partners as we proceed through this industrialisation process. But the demand is beyond encouraging, and beyond what we anticipated. The math is simple, same performance you know and love but in a much more sustainable package.
Your company’s mission includes advancing the circular economy in industries like fashion. How do you envision Activated Silk L1 contributing to this goal, and what other innovations are you working on to support sustainability in the fashion industry?
It begins with the resourcing and process of creating Activated Silk. Our silkworm cocoons are naturally and renewably sourced and we use renewable energy in the process. We mitigate waste by using the by-product of another unrelated industry, much like the leather skins themselves are the by-product of another unrelated industry, and by upcycling these materials we are limiting waste. And because our finish is biodegradable, it returns materials to the carbon cycle rather than sequestering carbon indefinitely. Our goal is to have a sustainable finish on every leather article not only in the fashion industry, but eventually in the furniture and automotive industries as well.
What kind of impact do you hope to have on the leather industry through the use of biodegradable finishes like Activated Silk L1? Are there any challenges or barriers you foresee in terms of adoption by manufacturers and brands?
We have our sights set on 100 per cent plastic free leather, with the ultimate goal of making leather truly natural again. The sheer amount of polyurethane that we can remove from the process means leather will truly be natural, and not just another plastic-coated product. So, we continue to push the R&D to the ultimate goal of the finishing system and combine that with the growing use of vegetable tanning processes. We are prepared to put truly natural leather on racks and shelves starting now. I can’t speak about the timelines of corporate structures who will ultimately bring this leather vision to the consumer market, but from a supply standpoint, that timeline is here and ready right now.
Many consumers are becoming more aware of the environmental impact of the products they purchase. How do you see this trend shaping the future of the fashion industry, and how is Evolved By Nature working to meet the demands of conscious consumers?
I think that trend is reflected in the partnerships we already participate in that I mentioned before. Cutting edge designers are centering their collections around the concept of sustainability and low impact utility for the new age. Bigger brands are always slower to implement the vision, but the consumer demand is already there; significant, and growing exponentially. In addition to that, continental regulations are starting to force the issue on some of the most hazardous chemicals, which is directly in accordance with public demand.
Can you share any future plans or partnerships that Evolved By Nature has in the works, particularly related to sustainable fashion?
We will begin officially shipping supply to tanneries around the world early in Q2 and it’s only a matter of time before it’s on the racks everywhere. We will continue to partner with the artists and creators throughout the coming years who deliver our science to the public in the most emotionally stirring way.
Tell us about the importance of collaboration between innovative companies like Evolved By Nature and fashion designers like Patrick McDowell in driving sustainable change in the fashion industry?
We do science. And we need artists to inspire people and make them feel the power of what the science can really do. So, when someone like Patrick designs around sustainability, it shows the world that fashion doesn’t suffer, but actually reaches a higher apex when it has a purpose. We all win.
What is your message to other new firms who are trying to succeed with a sustainable mindset?
It’s cliche to say “everybody wins” but the truth is the mission for sustainability means nobody loses. Caring about people and the living planet has never been more in fashion. You are doing the work that matters, and participating in the true innovations of our time. So anytime you want to share ideas, we have openings in our schedule to talk.
Interviewer: Shilpi Panjabi
Published on: 08/03/2023
DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.
