We are deeply committed to ethical production and sourcing
Geisha Designs is a luxury lifestyle brand from India, founded by Shalini Jaikaria and Paras Bairoliya in January 2001. The brand blends modern and traditional aesthetics, using western pattern making to reinterpret Indian silhouettes, focusing on fine craftsmanship, delicate embroidery, and vibrant textures. Known for its elegance and feminine designs, Geisha Designs has showcased its collections at major fashion events worldwide, including Paris and New York Fashion Weeks, and retails in over 100 stores globally. Speaking to Fibre2Fashion, Creative Director Shalini Jaikaria discusses the brand’s aesthetic, creative process, sustainable practices and future goals.
How has technology influenced design and production processes? Are there any tech trends you are particularly excited about?
In recent times, technology has significantly transformed both design and production processes, enhancing creativity, efficiency, and sustainability. The use of advanced machines for laser cutting and for application of sequins and beads has revolutionised our production process. These technologies make production considerably faster, more efficient and consistent, and enable us to achieve intricate designs that would be challenging to make by hand.
AI is becoming a game-changer in fashion design. We utilise AI for developing CADs, which helps in creating innovative designs and predicting fashion trends. We are particularly excited about advancements in sustainable technologies, such as eco-friendly fabrics and digital printing methods. These innovations support our mission to create beautiful, timeless pieces while minimising our environmental footprint.
Technology has not only enhanced our design and production processes but also aligned with our values of sustainability and innovation. Embracing these tech trends allows us to stay at the forefront of the fashion industry, continually pushing the boundaries of creativity and efficiency.
What are the current trends in the fashion industry that you find most exciting or promising?
Current trends that we find most exciting include the rise of sustainable fashion, the fusion of technology with design, and the shift towards gender-fluid and inclusive clothing. There is also a growing emphasis on personalisation and customisation, allowing consumers to express their individuality through bespoke pieces. Furthermore, the comeback of vintage and upcycled fashion is promising because it supports a more sustainable economy in the industry.
How has consumer behaviour in the fashion industry evolved over the past few years, especially with the rise of digital shopping platforms?
Consumer behaviour has evolved drastically, with a marked shift towards online shopping. Digital platforms offer convenience and a wider selection of choices, which has led to an increase in e-commerce. Consumers are now more informed and conscious about their purchases, often seeking brands that align with their values. Social media has also played a crucial role, as consumers increasingly rely on influencers and online reviews before make purchasing decisions.
How has the role of social media influencers and digital marketing transformed the way fashion brands connect with their audiences?
Social media influencers and digital marketing have revolutionised brand-audience interactions. Influencers act as authentic voices, bridging the gap between brands and consumers by showcasing products in relatable contexts. Digital marketing allows for targeted advertising, reaching specific demographics more effectively. Social media platforms enable real-time engagement and feedback, fostering a community around the brand and increasing customer loyalty.
What inspired you to start Geisha Designs, and how did your journey in the fashion industry begin?
Paras (Bairoliya) and I are batchmates and friends from National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi (Year 1995-98). After graduation, we both set out for varying experiences but our passion for technically playing with design brought us together and we put together a small atelier in 2001 with just 2 tailors. The journey has been a lot of learning and we have been able to multitask. It also allows us the freedom/flexibility to work with our individual strengths and also complement each other’s weaknesses.
While we are constantly gathering knowledge, our vibrant team keeps the brand and its ethos young and peppy. We have a state-of-the-art infrastructure and are today servicing more than 150 specialised boutiques and department stores across the globe.
Geisha Designs is known for its unique aesthetic. Can you elaborate on the core philosophy and vision behind your brand?
Our design philosophy revolves around creating enchanting and timeless pieces that transcend fleeting trends. We strive to sustain a feeling of enchantment in the ever-changing world of fashion. We are inspired by the beauty of the natural world and aim to capture its essence in our designs.
We celebrate individuality and aim to empower the wearers confidence and, in the process, bring ‘joy’ to their world.
Could you walk us through your creative process, from concept to final product? How do you ensure your designs stay fresh and innovative?
Flowers, art, mystique, life and nature’s pride form a constant source of inspiration for what we create at Geisha Designs. Nostalgia very often revolves around our themes infused with feminine elegance.
Every season, we delve into architecture, artists, landscapes, and art history, and immerse ourselves in various cultures through our travels. This helps us envision the stories we want our designs to evoke.
We then translate these stories into visual concepts through sketching and imagery. The mood board lends to explorations by way of surfaces (embroidery, prints, textures, dyeing), fibres to fabrics and patterns.
Toiles, colour-stories, swatches and explorations make way for final prototype development. Emphasis is laid on hand detailing and seam finishes to ensure each garment is beautiful inside out.
Our ultimate goal is to create pieces that tell a story, celebrate individuality, and resonate with personal narratives, offering designs that are both timeless and modern.
Who is the Geisha Designs customer? How do you keep your target audience in mind when creating new collections?
The Geisha Designs customer is a woman who celebrates her uniqueness and individuality. She is a girl blossoming with self-belief, unperturbed by society’s expectations. She is not demure or coy; is deeply connected to her roots; appreciates intricacy and precision. She is a storyteller of opulent elegance and a world traveller, with a personality that shines through in her love for dressing up to cheer herself.
Staying true to our design philosophy allows our clients to enjoy new collections each season as we play with different stories/narratives but maintain our hand-writing across them.
In what ways do you incorporate sustainability into your practices? Are there specific sustainable materials or processes you prioritise?
Sustainability is a strong value system at Geisha Designs, and we are deeply committed to ethical production and sourcing, in our efforts to contribute to the environment. We focus on using indigenous handmade techniques, which help sustain crafts, craftsmen, and artisans. Our approach incorporates reusing and recycling materials to ensure minimal wastage.
One of our key initiatives is offering clients the choice to upcycle or revamp their previous purchases from us to get more wear out of them. We largely utilise eco-friendly fabrics, employ eco-printing and dyeing techniques, and actively work to minimise waste while playing with patterns/silhouettes.
Our commitment to sustainability extends to our packaging, where we use scraps and printed materials. We also create collage collections to repurpose left-over materials. Every month, we embark on upcycling or redesigning 5-6 pieces from our older collections, giving them renewed purpose and preventing them from contributing to excessive waste.
A pivotal aspect of our sustainability efforts involves leveraging technology. We use computer-aided designs (CADs) and digital draping, allowing us to engage in ideation before the actual production of garments for clients or buyers.
By prioritising eco-friendly materials and processes, we aim to create beautiful, timeless pieces that not only tell a story but also respect and preserve our environment. Incorporating sustainability into our practices is a continuous journey for us.
What are some effective strategies that fashion brands can adopt to become more sustainable and environmentally friendly?
To make a fashion brand more sustainable, adopting green business practices is crucial. By doing so, the brand can reduce its environmental impact and contribute to a more sustainable future. Here are some ways to adopt green business practices:
Waste Management: Waste management is an important aspect of sustainability. One way to do this is by implementing a recycling programme. The brand can recycle paper, plastic, and other materials that are commonly used in the fashion industry. Another way to reduce waste is by using eco-friendly packaging materials. This can include biodegradable materials, recycled paper, or even reusable bags.
Sustainable Materials: Using sustainable materials in the process of manufacture is another way to make a fashion brand more sustainable. One can use materials such as organic cotton, recycled polyester, or even bamboo to create its products. These materials are environmentally friendly and can help reduce the brand’s carbon footprint.
Embracing circular fashion models that focus on recycling, upcycling, and clothing rental services can also minimise waste and create new revenue streams. Additionally, incentivising sustainable choices by rewarding consumers for eco-friendly decisions can encourage responsible consumption.
What have been some of the biggest challenges you have faced since founding Geisha Designs, and how have you overcome them?
One of the initial hurdles we faced was gaining access to established retail networks. We participated in many popups to generate awareness and to meet customers. We worked on our campaigns and advertised in glossies to reach our potential customers.
Adapting to market changes, particularly during economic uncertainties like the COVID-19 pandemic, required diversifying our product lines and enhancing our online presence. Embracing digital transformation, such as enhancing our e-commerce platform and utilising social media for direct consumer engagement, has helped us stay connected with our audience and adapt quickly to changes. We stay agile by continuously monitoring market trends and consumer feedback.
Another challenge we faced was finding the right balance between creativity and commercial viability as well as establishing a unique brand identity. As designers, we were passionate about pushing the boundaries of design, but we also had to ensure that our creations resonated with our target audience. We conducted thorough market research and offered bespoke service early on, and in the process have been able to service a loyal clientele.
We offer a large collection each season, servicing varying/diverse markets and product categories and hence are flexible to play with scale/economy of the production.
Collaboration with like-minded brands and engaging with our community have also been crucial in navigating ahead. These efforts enable us to stay afloat in the dynamic fashion industry.
Your brand has gained international recognition. How do you manage to cater to different markets while maintaining a consistent brand identity?
Balancing international and domestic market demands while maintaining a consistent brand identity has been our strength. We are consistent in our vision across all product categories. Our signature elements, such as unique silhouettes, intricate detailing, and storytelling, are always present to maintain a recognisable identity—versatile pieces that can be styled differently according to regional trends. Moreover, we are actively seeking and incorporating customer feedback from different regions. Our teams are also regularly engaging with influencers and celebrities who align with our brand ethos to help in creating a universal appeal.
Have you collaborated with other designers or brands? If so, can you share some insights or experiences from those collaborations?
The last few years have shown that partnership and collaborations lend a purpose to the efforts. For our recent showcase we collaborated with Lakme’ Salon, to launch ‘The Elemental Symphony’. We have in the recent past also collaborated with Svami, Ether, Metro shoes, Soni Sapphire, Stanger & Sons and many more. These partnerships have helped us explore new art forms, creating immersive and unique experiences for the audience. We have also collaborated with Music bands, content creators and individuals to explore new approaches of telling a story.
What are your future goals for Geisha Designs? Are there any upcoming projects or expansions that you are excited about?
Our future goals at Geisha Designs are centred around growth, innovation, and sustainability. We aim to expand our global presence, reaching new markets while continuing to build strong relationships with our existing customer base. This involves increasing our digital footprint through enhanced e-commerce platforms and leveraging social media to engage with a wider audience. We are also working to establish a larger product category and also adding design services to plug in closer to our customers’ needs.
While we continue to evolve and grow as a brand, we want to ensure that while creating beautiful designs we are directly or indirectly making a positive impact on the world around us.
Finally, what are the biggest challenges facing the fashion industry today, and what opportunities do you see arising from these challenges?
Fast fashion and overproduction present challenges, leading to excessive waste and flooding of poor-quality garments that have a short lifespan. The pressure to meet consumer demand for low-cost clothing often forces brands to cut corners in sustainability and labour practices. To counter this, the slow fashion movement advocates for high-quality, durable products and seasonless collections, appealing to consumers seeking longevity and value. Educating consumers about the true cost of fast fashion and promoting sustainable fashion choices can further support this shift. For instance, if the brand/label through its manufacturing is able to empower a certain section of society or if the proceeds from the sale go towards a social cause, it is now imperative that the same is communicated to the end user—either to appreciate the product more or to be directly/indirectly supporting the value chain/society.
Right communication and adopting best practices can help the fashion industry become more sustainable, ethical, and consumer-centric.
