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Interview with Theresa McKenney

Theresa McKenney
Theresa McKenney
Director of Sustainability and Government Affairs
NEMO
NEMO

NEMO has a rigorous, collaborative design process
NEMO is a New Hampshire-based outdoor gear company known for creating award-winning products that are built to last, comfortable, and fun to use. NEMO’s reputation for design innovation across its product lines—tents, sleeping bags, sleeping pads, camp accessories, and furniture—is an outgrowth of its design philosophy to never bring anything to market that does not offer a meaningfully better experience. NEMO’s team of designers and engineers are motivated by a passion for outdoor adventure and sustainability. In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, Director of Sustainability and Government Affairs Theresa McKenney discusses the outdoor equipment industry and the company’s commitment to inclusive adventure.

How is the evolving regulatory landscape impacting sustainability practices in the outdoor equipment sector, and what are some key regulations companies should be aware of?

The outdoor equipment sector is becoming increasingly regulated, notably in the textile space. An example of legislation being considered is California SB707, the Responsible Textile Recovery Act. SB707 will enact fees on producers selling textile products in California; the fees will then build a textile takeback infrastructure. Producers can reduce their fees if they have existing repair, resale, and recycling programmes. As of September 2024, the bill is awaiting signature by the Governor.
 

What are the latest trends in sustainable design within the outdoor equipment industry, and how are companies adapting to these trends?

Consumers are becoming more interested in products made with responsible chemicals management in mind. A simple way to identify such products is to look for those certified with bluesign Approved Materials or bluesign Products. bluesign is a supply chain transparency programme and system that focuses on resources, people, and the environment. bluesign audits and certifies companies involved in the production of chemicals and textiles, and rates materials based on strict criteria related to consumer safety and environmental impact. NEMO prioritises bluesign Approved Materials and designs bluesign Products.

How has the growing consumer demand for eco-friendly products influenced innovation and sustainability initiatives in the outdoor equipment industry?

Consumer demand is complicated. We have seen mixed signals on demand for eco-friendly products from the end consumer, especially with recent inflation issues. However, we have had strong, stable demand signals from wholesale customers like REI. REI’s annual Product Impact Survey has progressively pushed the outdoor industry to accelerate work on sustainable design.

How important is collaboration with trade associations and industry groups in advancing sustainability efforts in the outdoor equipment industry?

The outdoor industry has a long history of collaborating. We are much stronger when we work together for a healthy planet, inclusive recreation, and public land protection. The Outdoor Industry Association, American Apparel and Footwear Association, and European Outdoor Group have done great work to advance sustainability efforts in our industry.

NEMO’s origin was driven by the need for better outdoor gear design. How has that inspiration continued to shape the company’s design philosophy over the years?

Thoughtful, innovative design is one of NEMO’s core customer value propositions. Before bringing anything to market, we ask ourselves: does this product offer a meaningfully better and different experience than what is already out there? This is both a commitment to innovation and a commitment to sustainability⏤87 per cent of NEMO’s greenhouse gas emissions occur before the product leaves the factory. Over the years, we have applied this design thinking to every new category we have launched.

Can you share the journey of the development of the first airbeam-supported tents? What were the major breakthroughs and challenges during the prototyping phase?

The idea for NEMO’s first tent was born after a rough night camping on the windy flanks of New Hampshire’s Mt. Washington. Our founder and CEO, Cam Brensinger, was kept awake all night after his tent was flapping and collapsing in the wind. Cam drew up a design and hand-sewed our first air supported tent using 2,000 of his mother’s pushpins. Since then, NEMO has taken the same problem-solving and hands-on approach to designing our full line of innovative camping gear.

NEMO has won numerous design awards, including the ISPO Brand New award in 2005. How has winning such prestigious accolades impacted the company?

Winning accolades like the ISPO Brand New award has allowed NEMO to gain consumer awareness and market traction. We have been proud to receive numerous industry-leading awards, including another ISPO award in 2023, multiple Backpacker and Outside Editors’ Choice, the iF Design Award and GOOD Green Design award, to name a few.

NEMO has expanded into various types of adventure gear, from tents to sleeping bags and furniture. How does the company ensure that each product maintains the same level of thoughtful design and innovation?

NEMO has a rigorous, collaborative design process that includes leaders from across the company. We hold each other to our mission to create a lasting and iconic brand. We also use outside gear testers to put prototypes through real world conditions and provide feedback, along with in-house testing equipment that we have designed over the years. As I mentioned before, we would not bring anything to the market unless it provides a meaningfully better experience in the outdoors. For example, NEMO filed its first patent for backpacks in 2009 and did not release its first pack until 2023.

Can you walk through the design process of one of NEMO’s flagship products, such as the OSMO Backpacking Tent?

We start by identifying the problem: what are we trying to solve? With our OSMO development, we wanted to make the best tent fabric on the market. It was important for the fabric to be light, strong, and waterproof. We also set a target to use as many sustainable materials as possible. OSMO is the first poly-nylon composite tent fabric on the market. 100 per cent recycled and free of added PFAS and fire retardant chemicals, OSMO delivers 4x better water repellency than comparable tent fabrics, stretches 3x less when wet, and boasts exceptional strength at a reduced weight. OSMO is an example that performance and sustainability are not mutually exclusive.

Your products cater to various types of adventures, from ultralight backpacking to car camping. How does your team approach designing for such diverse needs?

We strive to incorporate diverse perspectives from the beginning of our design process. NEMO’s motto is Adventure Anywhere. Adventure for Anyone. Adventure Forever. Our motto reflects our commitment to inclusive adventure.

What are some of the biggest challenges in aligning NEMO's ESG strategy with business goals across various departments?

One of the biggest challenges in aligning NEMO’s ESG strategy with business goals across various departments is balancing investments in sustainability with other core business needs, such as maintaining healthy profit margins. In the current market environment, we have had to adopt more resourceful and innovative approaches to achieve both objectives.

NEMO’s Endless Promise programme is a key example of circularity in action. What were the most important considerations in launching a repair, resale, and recycling system for synthetic sleeping bags, and how has the programme been received by consumers?

We began our Endless Promise journey by focusing on product design. By adopting a mono-polymer construction, we incorporated circularity into our development process from the start. This made it easier to collaborate with recycling partners. The programme has been well-received by consumers; we have meaningfully expanded it across the NEMO line.

What impact do you believe business-driven climate advocacy can have on national environmental policies, and what role does NEMO play in this broader conversation?

A top priority for NEMO has been taking ownership of our own environmental impacts. However, we also believe that it is vital to use our voice to advocate at a local, state, and national level for smart climate and public lands policy. NEMO is an active and engaged member of organisations like Outdoor Industry Association and The Conservation Alliance. This year, we were invited to testify in front of the US Senate on the economic impact of climate change to the outdoor industry. We are excited to continue engaging on advocacy.

What are the main challenges the industry faces in sourcing sustainable materials, and how are companies overcoming these challenges?

Traceability is becoming an increasingly relevant issue. A great way to address the challenge is the adoption of certified materials like RDS Certified Down. NEMO has been certified to the Responsible Down Standard since 2017, and sources 100 per cent RDS certified down. This helps us better understand our supply chain and promote traceability.

What are NEMO’s long-term sustainability goals, and how does the company plan to achieve them in the coming years?

NEMO has set a target to cut our emissions intensity per product in half by 2030. So far, we have achieved a 36 per cent reduction in emissions intensity. In order to meet our goal, we will need to transition to lower-emission materials and decarbonise our supply chain.
Interviewer: Shilpi Panjabi
Published on: 08/11/2024

DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.